Callot Sisters
(1895 - 1937)
The Paris Couture house Callot Sisters was founded in 1895 by four sisters; Marie Gerber, Marthe Bertrand, Regine Tennyson-Chantrelle and Josephine Crimont; at 24 Rue Taitbout, Paris in 1895. By 1900, Callot Sisters was employing 600 workers and had clientele in Europe and America.
A number of designers including Madeleine Vionnet and Georgette Renal began their careers at Callot Sisters, before launching their own couture houses. The house designed daywear, tailored suits and evening dresses. The house was known for their luxurious use of silk, chiffon, and antique lace. Callot Sisters designs used old velvet and lace to construct elaborate day dresses which were often adorned with tiers of beads and more lace. They drew inspiration from Asian and African construction techniques. Callot sister Marie Gerber was drawn to the drape of the Asian kimono and was inspired by it in her designs. Gerber was also credited with designing some of the earliest variations of "Turkish" harem pants. Her combination of Asian design and the harem influence, gave birth to the "tango dress." For eveningwear Callot Sisters designed heavy satin gowns and were among the first designers to promote lame dresses.
In 1914 Callot Sisters moved to 9-11, avenue Matignon. It was also in 1914 when the Callot Sisters, as members of the Le syndicat de defense de la grande couture francaise, put in place controls to protect designer’s original creations, from ready-to-wear copy houses that would recreate them and sell them without the designer’s permission. They were joined by designers such as Paul Poiret, Jacques Worth and Jeanne Paquin to name a few.
The house of Callot remained open, during World War I, and the sisters continued to promote their clothing in America by exhibiting at the 1915 Pacific Panama International Exposition in San Francisco, California. By the 1920s the house had locations in Nice, Biarritz, Buenos Aires, and London. Callot Sisters remained active throughout the 1920s and participated in the 1925 Exposition international des arts decoratifs et industriels moderns in Paris.
In 1928, Madame Gerber’s son Pierre took over the firm and transferred its operations to 41, avenue Montaigne, where it remained until Madame Gerber retired in 1937.
