Henry Schreiner
(1927 - 1973)
Schreiner is known for his unusual settings. He used open prongs that cap his stones. He also set stones in an inverted position, with the pointed end up, which created dazzling prismatic effects. Schreiner’s signature stone cut was the “keystone” or “kite-shaped” stone, which he employed to create undulations in his famous “ruffle pins.” Some of the designs had inverted-sets or upside-down rhinestones and unusual color combinations of stones. Schreiner favored unusual shades of smoky grey, light brown, pale yellow and green faux peridots.
In 1953, Schreiner’s daughter Terry and her husband Ambros Albert joined the firm and soon the three of them were creating jewelry for Adele Simpson, Norman Norell, Teal Traina and Christian Dior, and other high-end shops whose models wore his costume jewelry on the catwalks. The company also designed ornaments for Elizabeth Arden. Only jewelry made for retail sale was marked Schreiner or Schreiner of New York. Sphinx was also a trademark of Schreiner.
Movie stars such as Bette Davis and Marilyn Monroe promoted Schreiner‘s jewelry. Although the Schreiner look is based on the abstract use of unique paste stones in unconventional settings, some figural pins were also made. Schreiner’s designs included flower pins of daises, geraniums, sunflowers, cornflowers, and white marguerites, dragonflies, carrots, pineapples, peas in a pot, turtles, and acorns, in different colors.
Schreiner’s jewelry used gun-metal plating; bronze plating and gold plating for backing along with very expensive made to order special shaped stones which he obtained from the skilled Czechoslovakian craftsmen in his country, Germany. These stones were very expensive, exclusive to Schreiner, and are no longer manufactured. The attention that Schreiner’s pieces commanded in the media made extensive advertising unnecessary.
Schreiner died in 1954; the company continued operating and making designs from Schreiner’s original molds under the leadership of his daughter and her husband. In the late 1960s, Schreiner continued to use quality crystal rhinestones in his designs. In 1973, the company ceased to operate.
Schreiner’s jewelry is considered one of the finest costume jewelry ever made. Today Schreiner jewelry is highly sought after by collectors.
